Compost revisited DIY FERTILIZER :How to turn grass and waste to cash

Compost : a non complicated path to your own fertilizer .
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Where to start : Plants need NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium.)
Decomposition in nature holds the key to our plant's needs.
So today I am going to get into how this works .
Where to start :
Site selection is key usually shady areas where micro organisms can propagate is preferable.
If no shade or covered structure is to be found use a tarp it will help hold in the heat and keep your pile from drying out




What to use :
Usually I prefer napier grass, caliendra, kakawati, madre de agua or basically any leaves and grasses I can get my hands on.
Shredding is preferable as it cuts your time to harvest drastically.
Like the difference between harvest time goes from 15 days to 45 or more if not shredded it is not necessary but is a HUGE help.




Inducers and micro organisms.
To hasten our decomposition I use either IMO (2-5) or Wood Vinegar basically we are giving nature a kick in the ass using nature.
Micro organisms via IMO and a decomposition hastener via FPJ is a solid start for your compost it can be made faster but it a bit more costly and only practical on the lower level.
But wood vinegar can be made in abundance but the drawback is a 6 month ferment time but it is extremely worth the wait as it is insanely powerful .


Nutrient add ons :
To get a desirable result some farmers chose animal waste now I am not against this practice HOWEVER.
If you should choose to use it PLEASE DRY YOUR WASTE PROPERLY as to prevent the spread of disease causing pathogens.
Animal wastes that are preferable pig,chicken,goat,carabao,cow.
DO NOT USE HORSE WASTE AS IT HAS THE BACTERIA FOR TETANUS PREVALENT IN IT .
Also do not use dog, cat , or human waste as they all eat too many unnatural things and it is counter productive to composting or organic growing.
Also some people use wood ash I recommend this in trace doses as it can supplement phosphorous just know it downgrades nitrogen content slightly so you would need to supplement with Fish Amino Acids once the compost is in your garden if that were the case.
If you look through the pictures and see the thermometer burning at 160 degrees F I have seen above 200 degrees and IT WILL BURN YOU !
You will see the steam rise as you turn it .
You also see the white fungus those are good micro organisms doing their jobs.

That is the decomposition happening.
If you give them a steady supply of food (compost) they will become entrenched in your area. thus relieving you of the need to spray inducers all the time.
You will need to turn your pit every 3-4 days and add a new one if you are operating a sustainable model.
Let the needs of your farm dictate the size of your pits.
Also how much you need to use and the condition of your soil will dictate too.
If you suspect nutrient deficiencies have your soil tested and add as needed.


Also DO KNOW not every compost will look the same expect that they wont.
Vermi composting
I am not a proponent of this as if you feed the worms their waste expelled is actually less rich in nitrogen than if you would have just done an outright compost.
So I will do substrates and vermi at a later date .

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